Corsica had a modern constitution before the US or France did. In the mid 1700’s, Corsica was it’s own nation, with Pascale Paoli as its leader. Sadly for the young Corsican nation, it didn’t last, and the island has been French ever since. But you wouldn’t know it in Corte (population 6000, and 10000 when university is in session), the former capital of the Corsican nation, where I spent 2 nights. Everything is named after Paoli here: the university, the main boulevard, the downtown square. And Corsican nationalist graffiti is everywhere, things like “Corsica libera,” “Liberta a u nostru patriotti” (as you can see, the Corsican language looks a lot like Italian), and even some insulting remarks toward the French president Sarkozy (and depictions of his gravestone). I have yet to get the whole story, but it’s obvious that Corte is the seat of Corsican nationalism. Or as some Parisians I met in Bastia told me, “Corte is the Texas of Corsica.” I’m not sure if the analogy fits entirely, but it is true that the people of Corte seem very proud of their identity. And no wonder…it’s a beautiful town, off the coast, and in the heart of the island. Corte is surrounded by jagged mountains (it’s like an entirely different landscape from the Mediterranean coast of a few days ago), some still with snow on the peaks, and deep valleys. It’s a great place for the outdoorsy apparently: hiking, canyoning, camping, etc. Unfortunately, I have other things to do.
the citadel of Corte
…like learn about Corsican culture at the Musee de la Corse, the only museum dedicated to Corsican ethnography. (oh right, this is where the research comes in). I spent awhile in this museum taking notes and hopefully got some good information. Attached to the museum is the citadel (the only inland citadel on the island), which is sort of the icon of the city, and I got a great view of the surrounding countryside from the top. There was also a dungeon, fitted with a stone bed and pillow for the prisoners. How thoughtful.
Other highlights in Corte were the belvedere, another lookout tower, several quaint churches, and the haut ville, the old part of the town paved over in cobblestones and up a hill. I took the petit train tour of the town, on a little motored train that winds around the bumpy roads, offering a brief explanation of some of the town’s landmarks.
the petit train tour
