Something Old, Something New

This morning we woke to a dismal forecast, so Clara and I decided to change our original plans to go to Versailles and spend the day in Paris instead.  We said goodbye to Whitney in the morning (she’s headed back to the States, after not being able to get an internship visa for London) and set out for the Montparnasse district.  We passed the Tour Montparnasse, a jarring skyscraper, built in the 70’s.  After it was built, tall buildings in the heart of the city were banned, and rightfully so, because it looks completely out of place, since the Eiffel Tower and church steeples are the only other things rising above the uniform skyline.  Not much to see at the tower, so we moved on to the catacombs, a former quarry, parts of which were used for cemetery relocation and mass graves in the 18th and 19th centuries.  The site is a chilly labyrinth under the ground with walls filled with ornate patterns of skulls and bones.  It was somewhat creepy, with dim lighting and a dripping ceiling, but a very unique sight.

a hall of the catacombs=many bones

After the walk underground, which took almost 45 minutes, we needed to warm up with some cafe (espresso, since that’s the style here, and I’ve come to accept it, as long as I can slip an entire sugar packet into my tiny coffee shot).  We then took the metro to just outside the city limits to the area where skyscrapers are allowed: La Defense, the  modern business and industrial district, which is more of what typically comes to mind in a large capital city.  It’s been livened up with quirky modern art installations all over the main walkway, and ends in the Arche de la Defense, a giant arch that’s meant to mimic the famous Arc de Triomphe within the city.  Notre Dame cathedral could fit within the arch.  At first it didn’t seem so big, but it was a mirage.  As we walked closer and closer to the arch, we kept realizing it was farther away than it looked, so when we finally got to the steps, it was impossible to take it all in at once.

La Defense district: blue skies behind, grey skies ahead

And from the incredibly modern, we traveled back to the heart of Paris for something more traditional–the Notre Dame towers.  The wait for climb the seemingly endless spiral staircases was an hour long, but made slightly more amusing by the  masked man who wandered the street scaring and surprising passersby to entertain the crowd waiting and hopefully earn some of their spare euros.  I was glad that I was one of the ones watching, and not caught by his game (although I may at this point be so unfazed by the catcalls, musicians and street performers, and men peeing in alleys/behind cars, that I might not have noticed.

looking out at Paris from Notre Dame

The wait for the towers was definitely worth it for a 360 degree view of the city and of the classic gargoyles as well as the many-ton church bell.  Quasimodo himself was nowhere to be seen however.  We ended the long day by meeting up with a Swiss girl that Clara met in her classes for a drink and dinner.  And now it’s time for rest before what’s sure to be an eventful next few days, as the Bastille Day celebrations draw ever closer!  Tons and tons of new photos coming to the site soon, so check back often.